JEDDAH: In a fascinating blend of tradition and modernity, Banat Al Balad, a fashion collection by Saudi designer Makram Marzouki, was showcased at Zainal House in Jeddah’s historic Al Balad district on Saturday, paying homage to Jeddah’s rich cultural heritage.
Al Marzouqi, who is originally from Jeddah, chose his hometown as the inspiration for this unique collection, aiming to capture the essence of the country’s stone facades and ornate rashin.
The collection, rooted in the complex beauty of Hejazi architecture, is inspired by the ornate Rawashin and Manjur window patterns that have long been a distinctive feature of the region's buildings.
Banat Al Balad's wedding look is characterized by the Roshan style, inspired by the one found in Nassif's house. (Photo by Jalil Felemban/Photo)
Rawashin is a prominent architectural feature in Hijazi architecture, especially in the historic regions of Jeddah and Mecca in Saudi Arabia. The term Roshan refers to the elaborately carved wooden window frames or gratings that form an integral part of traditional homes in the Hejaz region. These decorative wood screens serve several practical and aesthetic purposes. Manjoor patterns are the primary inspiration that adorns each piece of fabric in the collection.
The collection includes 23 dresses worn by Saudi models from all 13 regions of the Kingdom, highlighting the diversity of Saudi beauty.
highLights
• Banat Al Balad is inspired by the ornate Rawashin and Manjur window patterns that have long been a distinctive feature of the region’s buildings.
• Samaher Bashmakh, a recent graduate of the Royal Institute of Traditional Arts, reinterprets traditional wooden patterns for weaving.
Each piece in the Banat Al-Balad collection is a testament to the Kingdom's rich cultural fabric, brought to life through the collaborative efforts of artist Ahmed Angawi and Royal Institute of Traditional Arts graduate Samaher Bashmakh, who reinterpreted traditional wooden patterns for spinning and weaving. Traditional and innovative weaving techniques from some of the world's most famous mills helped bring it all together.
“We really tried to create a Saudi visual identity,” Al Marzouqi told Arab News in an exclusive interview before the show. So, when we thought about it, what is really good about Saudi Arabia visually? It's engineering.”
Speaking about the importance of Zainal House to the group, he said: “This is a really important house. It was the first to be built on brick. It is a UNESCO heritage site. And we just thought about the grandeur of the double staircase…and we thought about a real new entryway and the drama and what it could do.
Ray Joseph, creative consultant. (Photo/Supplied)
Each of the models was crowned with a head covering known in Hijazi tradition as the “rounded ihram.”
“I remember my grandmother used to wear this,” Al Marzouqi said. So, we tried to make it match every look.”
The collection features many distinctive shapes that demand attention. The velvet pieces are the result of intricate jacquard weaving, which is produced in one of the last remaining velvet mills.
“Banat Al-Balad” by Saudi designer Makram Marzouki was displayed at Zainal House in Jeddah’s historic Al-Balad neighborhood on Saturday, in honor of Jeddah’s rich cultural heritage. (supplied)
The evening wear sparkles with a hand-painted luster overlay and velvet inserts on a lace base, showcasing the fine craftsmanship used.
A highlight of the collection is the bridal look, which was created using openwork mangore lace by a Swiss mill, and is completed with a silk organza veil made with French embroidery, requiring approximately 400 hours of labor. Each look is crowned with a rounded mahram, made of cotton voile and satin, as a tribute to the traditional clothing of the region.
Marzouki explained that today's look focuses on practical, wearable clothing suitable for the workplace – business casual and smart casual clothing that is stylish and comfortable.
Emphasizing modesty, the collection includes everyday shirts, coats, skirts and dresses, meeting the need for a refreshing work wardrobe for women. The goal is to provide options beyond traditional abayas, bringing a Saudi touch to elegant casual wear to a global audience.
In terms of clothing choices, the designer highlights consideration of comfort in warm climates, incorporating lace and even bamboo fabric for heat-friendly options.
The collection explores negative and positive space through perforated designs displaying roshan-like patterns. In addition, some of the dresses feature patterns translated into velvet, while the custom-made shoes, made in collaboration with ZYNE, also incorporate Rochan's unique elements.
The styles in the collection are inspired by different houses, including Al-Matbouli, Ba Junaid, and Beit Salloum, each with their own unique story.
The wedding look features a roshan pattern inspired by that found at Nassif House – a restored coral house in the country that served as a royal residence for King Abdulaziz – which is faithfully translated into this gown through hand-applied organza inserts. The veil, also hand-embroidered in an atelier in France, follows the pattern but appears to be fading.
Bashmakh's creativity and skill have translated the wooden roshan pattern into a stunning gown suitable for the bride. It was worn by Ray Joseph, a Saudi film collector, fashion entrepreneur and creative consultant.
She told Arab News: “Makram has always been a designer at heart… He knows fashion history and fashion archives and speaks beautifully about fashion.
“It's an honor to walk for the first time… I'm very proud to see everything that's happening now. This is just the beginning. Everyone here is lucky because they later said they were at Makram Marzouki's first ever show.
“When you look at the culture here, it is very rich, so… we have a lot of heritage, a lot of culture, and a lot of stories to tell,” Al Marzouqi said.
Joseph praised the meticulous approach and exceptional quality with which Marcozzi integrates culture into his work. “This is an independent show,” she said. The way they brought the community together and the way the models were Saudi and all the participants were Saudi is noteworthy. Because it is an independent effort by Saudi creators.
Brand consultant Alaa Balkhi echoed these sentiments, telling Arab News: “We are very happy to make the show to represent the community effort… The main makeup artist is Saudi, the producers are Saudi, the director of the show is Saudi… We really wanted to live with this show. We are doing our part in Saudi Vision 2030.”
Al Marzouqi added: “We are very proud of this. The entire production team here is Saudi. This show wouldn't have happened without MAC's support as well. They took care of the makeup for the entire show.
Banat Al Balad, which translates to “Girls of the Country,” is more than just a fashion collection; It is a celebration of Jeddah's heritage, skillfully blending the old with the new to create a luxurious textile line that pays tribute to the architectural beauty and cultural richness of the Kingdom.
