The mile-long bar in the coastal city of Esmeraldas, Ecuador, sways to the sounds of laughter and Latin tunes.
The main seaside road is bordered by the blue sea and white sands of the Pacific Ocean on one side, and busy bars and restaurants on the other. It's summer time, it's carnival, and it's time to party.
Hotel occupancy rates are over 70%, and in the best restaurants one has to stand in line for a table, albeit while sipping a cold cocktail while waiting.
This can be any hot tourist destination, from Rio de Janeiro to the Caribbean, to Florida, to Spain. I'm lucky enough to visit all of them.
There is a difference here though.
When one crosses the road to get ice cream, for example, you have to be sure that you are not in the path of a patrol of heavily armed, balaclava-wearing Marines who are ever-present – sometimes patrolling in their cars, sometimes on foot.
It sounds natural, it sounds natural, but it's not.
The city of Esmeraldas Ecuador As a whole, it is At war with drug gangsWhile the security forces are currently winning, the war is far from over.
Just a few weeks ago, Esmeraldas was a no-go zone, and so far very few international or foreign journalists have visited this coastal city.
The beaches and streets were empty at that time, and hotel occupancy was close to zero.
Restaurants are closed and bars are open to a small number of regulars.
Heavily armed marines patrol the beach
Violence and rebellion spread throughout Ecuador
Mexican drug cartels and cartel leaders were killing people, setting off car bombs, and promising rebellion after Ecuador's president launched a nationwide crackdown on their business interests and complete disregard for the rule of law — and even democracy.
Daniel Noboa, Ecuador's 36-year-old president, launched the crackdown after reputed drug kingpin Adolfo “Vito” Macias escaped from prison in Guayaquil.
Violence and rebellion spread across the country after his escape, and Esmeraldas quickly became a major problem. Its homicide rate rose, making it one of the most dangerous cities in the world at the time.
Ecuadorian President Daniel Noboa. Photo: AP
“They are no longer afraid, they are free.”
President Noboa needed someone to solve the problem. He made the call one morning.
The man who answered was the retired former police chief of Esmeraldas, who now lives in the United States.
The president said he needed help. The man who called nodded his agreement, hung up, told his wife, and then boarded the next flight home to Ecuador.
Javier Buitron talks to Stuart Ramsay as his bodyguard walks behind him
I met Javier Buitron by the sea in Esmeraldas, and his bodyguards were always there.
He is now the ruler of Esmeraldas.
“People did not leave their homes, they were afraid they would be killed,” he told me.
“Now I am happy that they are no longer afraid, they are free, the people are free and they are now enjoying this place, in the bars, they are enjoying the streets, they are now enjoying the beach.”
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Inside a maximum security prison in Esmeraldas
The authorities regain control
Working alongside the police and army, Mr. Buitron is credited with transforming this entire place in just 26 days.
The authorities now control the streets. They also regained control of the local prison, and officers and soldiers could enter neighborhoods they could not enter before, including the area where the gangs had joined forces with the Sinaloa and Jalisco New Generation Mexican cartels.
A few weeks ago, bodies were hanging on bridges in that part of Esmeraldas, a clear sign of the presence of the most powerful Mexican gangs in these same neighborhoods, Buitron said.
The bridge from which the bodies were hanged
Residents celebrate the changes
I visited the area and spoke to residents who said it was a nightmare and they were happy things had changed.
“I feel personally grateful, because here before, at this time of day, you couldn't even be here, and the bullets were raining down from the other side, from one side to the other, but now as you can see, we are calm. “We are at peace.” A man named Leonardo told me, speaking from his front door.
Leonardo says he's glad things have changed
His neighbor Andrea agreed: “Things have improved a lot, they have changed a lot.” “Now you can walk around, you don't hear gunfire like before, you don't hear that anymore, it's changed a lot.”
Andrea says 'things are much better'
The ruler makes sure that he is visible among the public
Although the gang wants to kill the Governor, he makes sure that he is present and visible, day and night – with security always at his side.
People here in Esmeraldas treat him like a rock star.
Mr. Petron hugs a woman
At the beachfront, we couldn't walk for more than 10 minutes or so at a time on the main promenade without someone stopping to talk, ask for a selfie, or just say thanks.
I have never seen a politician treated with so much respect before.
He said that seeing people so happy makes him happy and encourages him to continue.
“We need to restore people's confidence, we need to revive the economy, we need good things for people, we need opportunities,” he said.
“We work every day, we have no time to rest, we have to work hard every day, because I am here to solve problems.”
