Written by Claire ThorpeReporter Features
Zendaya wore a Thierry Mugler robot suit to the London premiere of Dune: Part Two – from Grace Jones to Lady Gaga, the French designer has created outrageous outfits for the world's most glamorous figures.
There was a definite futuristic vibe on the red carpet for the London premiere of Dune: Part Two this week. Timothée Chalamet wore metallic trousers, while Florence Pugh wore a black sequin dress by Valentino. But no one understood the mission more than Zendaya, who showed up in a silver cyborg suit proving that, when it comes to fashion, she doesn't just belong in another league — she's in another world.
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Designer Zendaya Law Roach sourced the suit from French fashion designer Thierry Mugler's 1995 couture collection. Originally created in collaboration with artist Jean-Jacques Orcon, the robot suit is inspired by the character Futura from the 1925 novel Metropolis. Made of chrome, it features glass openings It took six months to make. The futuristic look was the perfect choice for the launch of a sci-fi movie — and if Zendaya was looking to create a special moment on the red carpet, she chose it wisely. Because if there's one designer whose creations are sure to turn heads, it's Thierry Mugler.
Mugler, who died in 2022 at the age of 73, was known for his love of showmanship. When Zendaya's suit was first spotted on the catwalk in the mid-'90s, it was part of a special show held at Cirque d'Hiver in Paris to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Thierry Mugler brand. The show is dubbed “Woodstock Fashion”, actress Tippi Hedren appeared wearing a black bird-covered dress (a nod to her most famous role), alongside many of the biggest models, musical guests and porn stars of the era. It was a show that was both ridiculous and exaggerated, and also completely typical of Thierry Mugler.
Mugler first began his career as a designer in the 1970s and quickly became known for his theatrical designs. Mugler – who wanted to be a dancer when he was young – was inspired by superheroes, goddesses, cabaret stars and cartoon characters. He loved feathers, sequins and crystals, and was known for his sculptural and architectural designs. His distinctive silhouette was an inverted triangle, with large, structured shoulders and a tightly cinched waist.
He quickly established himself as the go-to designer for celebrities who wanted to attract attention. Not surprisingly, Grace Jones was an early fan. In 1979, David Bowie wore a pink Mugler dress in the video for Boys Keep Swinging.
In the 1980s, his fashion shows became legendary. In 1984, he organized his first commercial fashion show, selling 6,000 tickets for his show at the Zenith Stadium in Paris. In the end, model Pat Cleveland (who was six months pregnant) descended from the heavens as Madonna in a sheer chiffon gown. In 1985, he sent models down the runway with gold plates covering their nipples (and at one point, he gave Iman a live monkey to perch on her shoulder).
Beyond wonderful
In the 1990s, his thirst for glamor became greater, even as many other designers were embracing a more minimalist look, and the grunge aesthetic was everywhere. “I don't believe in natural fashion.” Tell New York times.
In 1990, he sent models including Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell down the catwalk wearing bondage-inspired outfits, complete with whips. In 1991, the clothes were cartoonish, with Christy Turlington wearing a dress made of giant balls of fur. In his fall 1997 couture collection, model Adriana Karembeu walked down the runway in a corset dress covered in scales made of horsehair, feathers and Swarovski crystals, looking like a high-fashion fish. That same year, Jerry Hall—his longtime muse—walked down the runway dressed as an exceptionally charming peacock.
Mugler's fashion-like designs meant that he was and remains particularly beloved in the music world, with Madonna, Celine Dion and Diana Ross wearing his creations on stage. Mugler provided the costumes for George Michael's 1992 video for Too Funky, including A.J Motorcycle inspired bustier From his spring/summer 1992 show.
Beyoncé also wore a Mugler motorcycle bra on the cover of her 2009 album I'm Fierce, and continued to wear his designs on stage for years. For last year's Renaissance Tour, she wore a custom Mugler Cyborg suit inspired by his original design. Now she's entering her own era, it wouldn't be surprising to see her rocking a bright red cowgirl outfit from the Spring/Summer 1992 show. Lady Gaga is also a long-time Mugler fan, and often wears vintage pieces in her videos and on the red carpet.
At the 2019 Grammy Awards, Cardi B wore a pastel pink 1995 Mugler dress — the “Birth of Venus” dress — that gave the impression that she was a human pearl inside an oyster shell. That same year, Kim Kardashian wore a custom Mugler dress to the Met Gala. The latex-embroidered dress, which looked like water dripping off her body, took eight months to make — and it did Thierry Mugler's first creation for his namesake house in 20 years.
With Mugler no longer with us, stars can now delve into his archives to create stunning fashion moments. And with Zendaya setting the bar so high, we can expect more to come.
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